Expanding the Waist for Box Pleats without Recalculating!

I love box-pleated skirts. I have always wanted to make one, but was never good with math so I never got it right. That is why I love the Poppy Skirt from Phat Quarters.

I wanted to make Leah a new box pleat skirt, but she didn't fit the measurements. That is not usually a problem.  I knew I could still make the skirt but how to add 4” at the waist without ruining or re-figuring the pleats?  There was no way I could work out the math without giving myself a headache!

I decided to make the skirt version with the elastic waist to give myself some wiggle room (and her too).  I started with the front and instead of cutting the rectangle to size, I added 10” to the width and began marking for the pleats according to the directions starting with the center pleat.  I pleated on each side evenly until I had the width needed according to the front and back waistband measurements with 2” added to each.  I added the seam allowance on each side and cut the excess fabric off.

Next, I added the pockets to the sides. I also added the pocket to the extended width of the back piece and sewed my side seam. I extended the width 5” to each back piece.

  

Then, I continued pleating until I had the width needed for the one back piece then did the same thing for the other back piece, adding 2” total.  (1” on each back piece plus seam allowance)

This pattern is so well designed that I only had to make very small adjustments to the pleats for them to be even. I finished the pattern according to the instructions for the waistband with elastic.

This Pattern is on sale on Maarch 19, 2020 for Throwback Thursday! Grab it at 

Phat Quarters PDF Patterns today only!

What's a Little Hack Among Friends

     I have really let loose with my creative juices!  I can't believe I have actually hacked a pattern.  I do have to admit Phat Quarters has made it easy.  They are so creative and encouraging. They actually want you to take their patterns that step further and make it your own. 

     For the last Friday of the month of February, the featured patterns are The Rosemary Sweater, The Dakota Tank and Dress, and the Sage shorts.  I have chosen to hack the Rosemary Sweater and combine it with the Dakota Tank and Dress to create a fun spring and summer outfit.

     The Rosemary Sweater already has several looks,  a crop sweater with a several cowl neck views. I wanted to make my granddaughter a Dakota Dress, but knowing her, she will wear it as soon as I make it no matter what the weather.  So why not make her a modified Rosemary sweater that can be worn all spring and summer?

     The first thing was finding the right fabric. I choose a kint lace. Since the Rosemary is double layered-reversible-the lace would cover her arms and give her some protection from the weather and her dad (very conservative) and allow her to wear it to school.

First, I decided to leave off the cowl neck.

Then, I shortened the sleeves.

Finally, I constructed it the same as in the pattern except I sewed the neckline together leaving the opening for turning in the back bodice next to the shoulder seam.

TIP:

I stay-stitched the opening before I turned the sweater inside out so it wouldn't stretch out of shape.

I completed the sweater according to the directions

It made a beautiful top over the Dakota Dress.  

Even though this was a simple hack, it created a very cute alternative for transitioning into spring.

The Adventure of Self-Sewing

I think I stopped sewing for myself about 15 years ago.  I was getting frustrated with available patterns in my size and the need to make so many alterations without understanding what I was doing.

Then I saw this notice on FaceBook, Tester Call for adult patterns. It has changed my life!  The first tester call came from Phat Quarters They wanted to do a basic tee and wanted to include sizes up to 5X.  Now we were cooking, of course, I didn't have any idea what size I wore.  The Eve Layering Tee was perfection!  The pattern included cup sizes also, allowing me to have a custom fit. What I liked the most was the darts! They are great for short people.